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9: The Dining-Room
Costume of the Order of the Saint Esprit (Holy Spirit) for the Ceremony of Initiation First quarter of the 19th century France The French Catholic Order of the Holy Spirit was founded by King Henri III in 1578, at a time of discord and religious strife, with the aim of bolstering the Catholic faith and royal power. It existed until 1830. On 25 August 1815 three sovereigns of countries belonging to the anti-Napoleonic coalition - Emperor Alexander I of Russia, King Frederick William III of Prussia and Emperor Francis I of Austria - were initiated into the order. The costume that Alexander I wore for the ceremony retained traditional features dating back to the 16th century. The colours of the costume had a symbolic significance: green stood for "honour, love and gallantry"; orange represented the sun and gold. The decorative edging of the black velvet mantle has a pattern incorporating motif of tongues of flame, trophies, fleur-de-lis and the letter H (for Henri III) framed by crowns. The largest motif - the trophy - is appliquè work made up of solid metal plates, flat pieces of foil, sequins, silver and gold threads. The brocade doublet and hose are decorated with silver thread embroidery and sequins. |
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