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This striking evening dress made of bright green satin
and black chiffon belonged to Vera Karakhan, the wife of a prominent diplomat.
Skilful use is made here of fabrics with contrasting colours and different
textures, when the gleam of the green satin through the translucent black
chiffon engenders a special decorative effect. This dulls the brightness
of the green and only the bottom of the skirt, left free of chiffon, forms
a sort of chromatic highlight in the whole composition. The austere, elegant
silhouette with a slightly elevated waist is clear evidence of the influence
of Empire-period costumes, while the embroidery in golden-green silk and
gold thread forming a pattern of chrysanthemum flowers and leaves is typically
Art Nouveau in both the treatment of plant forms and the choice of colours.
The design of the skirt of this dress - draping in a spiral - is also
original. A small overskirt, tight on the hips, that is made to imitate
a shawl with tassels, turns into a small, sharply pointed train.
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Copyright © 2011 State Hermitage Museum |