On May 17, 2014, the most spacious great halls of the Winter Palace saw the opening of an ambitious exhibition entitled “At the Russian Imperial Court. Costumes of the 18th – Early-20th Centuries in the Hermitage Collection”.


1880s


C. 1867
Austria


Charles Frederick Worth Fashion House
Paris, France. 1890s


Full-dress uniform: 1829–1855;
general’s epaulettes: 2nd quarter – mid-XIX century;
breeches: 1855–1859;
boots: 19th Century;
spurs: 19th Century
Russia


1900–1901
G. & E. Spitzer Atelier
Vienna, Austria


1886–1887
Russia (?)


France, Paris
1911–1912
«Doucet» fashion house
The exhibition is a slice of life of the upper echelons of society, which served as the backdrop for many state affairs, historical events and cultural developments in Europe, where the personalities and idiosyncrasies of certain individuals were on dramatic display, and where Western European and Eastern influences mingled but never outshone the nation’s signature style.
The exhibition recreates the image of the Russian imperial court through works of art and household items. Paintings, graphic art, furniture, palace silver, icons and devotional items, insignias, ceremonial arms and documents help visitors feel the daily rhythm of the country’s main imperial residence, where the personal lives of the Russian monarchs unfolded, and where official ceremonies, receptions, parades and balls were hosted. Celebrations of state and church holidays – as well as milestone events in the life of the imperial family – these ceremonies symbolized the majesty of the Russian empire and supported its international prestige.
The overall impression of the pomp and ceremony of the Russian Court that so often dazzled contemporaries was largely achieved thanks to the opulent, elegant attire of the monarchs and their courtiers. This is precisely why the exposition is anchored by clothing and accessories that once belonged to members of the imperial family and members of the Russian aristocracy.
The costumes put on display for specialists and the general public combine both international and national elements, reflecting, as if in a mirror, the shifting style-leanings of Russian society, whether to Germany, France or England. The exhibition includes both ceremonial and daily costumes, outfits for visits and horseback riding, children’s and masquerade costumes, morning and strolling attire, evening wear and ball gowns. The full-dress uniforms of different troops highlight a special world of fashion – military fashion. Every monarch added his own personal touches to military uniforms, tweaking the cut here and decorative elements there, so Russian emperors have every right to be called “military fashion designers.”
The exhibition also reflected such topics as the favorite pastimes and leisure pursuits of the Russian aristocracy: theater, music, games (charades, chess, cards) and the “imperial hunt.” Of particular interest are exhibits with a rich memorial history – customary items of representatives of the ruling dynasty and family heirlooms of the palace denizens standing closest to the throne. The best examples from the vast costume stores – the wardrobes of Emperor Peter I and Empress Maria Fedorovna, the wife of Alexander III, the “military-style” gowns of Empress Ekaterina II and masquerade costumes from the famous “historical balls” in the Winter, Mikhailovsky and Yusupov Palaces – demonstrate not only the epitome of fashion trends of the day, but also social mandates, predicated on the personal tastes of the royals and their inner circle.
The exhibition is intended to portray the richness of the spiritual, artistic and social life of Russian court nobility, as well as the evolution of taste, style, fashion and custom throughout the 18th – early-20th Centuries.
The costumes were prepared for the exhibition by art-restorers at the Fabric Scientific-Restoration Laboratory of the Scientific Restoration and Conservation Department at the State Hermitage: M.V. Denisova (Laboratory Head), T.V. Grunina-Shkvarok, L.N. Loginova, N.Y. Lyakina, N.S. Pinyagina, A.A. Ryadova, E.P. Taravkova, M.N. Tikhonova, G.G. Fedorova and A.A. Shapran.
Exhibition curators: Vyacheslav Anatolievich Fedorov, Head of the Department of Russian Cultural History, Nina Ivanovna Tarasova, Head of the Sector for the Applied Arts, and Yu.V. Plotnikova, Senior Research Associate at the same department.